I enjoy sitting at a well-appointed cocktail bar – at times, even an open lounge or upscale hotel lobby watching the ebb, the flow, and quietly award scoring decisions or constructive criticism on those who pass by – ‘What made him think that mess goes together?’ or ‘Great shoes, but she needs someone taller.’ However, it is a challenge to be a green-drinker from the lounge – at the bar refills are easy as my imbibe of choice is Bourbon, neat please.
In early 2020 I found Ivy-Style, discovered a world of which I knew nothing, and dove in. I was not in the habit of working on my sartorial style, it was-what-it-was. That year I discovered my sartorial ambitions and goals had a name; I discovered the word sartorial. I was more definable than merely being a BB fan - I am Trad, with a southern spin. Before discovering Ivy-Style I would have branded my style as preppy, and while I may have been for a few years in my 20’s, I am no longer that extreme of colored layers and knotted accessories. During my college years, two of my best friends were Tinker and Muffy, documented proof of a preppy past. Since finding Ivy-Style I have learned why I was never comfortable in suits other than BB. I was a 3/2 roll Guy for 35 years, without ever knowing the term. The last two BB suits I purchased were from their deceased flagship store in NYC – 20+ years ago (pre-pandemic), I still have and wear both. My latest two (since pandemic) are from J. Press and O’Connell, the latter in person, in Buffalo (Hi John! No, not you JB, John from O’Connell’s, the son not dad).
Over the years I acquired lots of new clothes, and still have ‘some’ of them, but not most of what was bought – shirts wear out, ties stain, decisions age poorly with time, waistlines shrink to where trousers cannot be taken in further, the chest and shoulders have emerged to where a 40 becomes a 44. In all that time the idea of thrifting for ‘work’ clothes never appealed to me, that type of activity was merely a search for what to wear during the next painting project, or for leave-behind khakis to be worn on safari. In 2020 my work life changed as did my work location. I needed to focus anew on my professional attire, and then in 2021 a friend introduced me to thrifting for clothes to be worn regularly – it was a godsend discovery.
Thrifting (rescuing) clothes enables me to experiment with combinations, and I have achieved a better understanding of fabrics, textures, and design. And while clothes are not animate objects, they do convey energy and a force upon us which highlights their strengths. Metaphysically, rescuing a garment gives it another life – an adventure it did not expect – the same way we adventure into unknows – it is the other side of the same coin – giving an excellent item a second chance in turn creates a newness, a fresh approach, and a back stock of wonderful options. I have found some wonderful items from J. Press, BB, Hanauer, Oxford Clothes, Seersucker pants with palm trees (GTH baby!), as well as foolishly discarded bespoke items. Trad is a tough shopping experience in Florida, and Business trips to Buffalo and New Haven do not always provide time for shopping. Trying on new and looking in a mirror is good fun and enjoyable, an experience complimented by rescuing someone’s poor discard.
An easy example is ties. While much of the business world is eschewing them for sneakers, untuck-its, and a blazer, I am going the other direction. At this point I have over 150 that are “new” to me in the last year, this includes new bow ties from Hanauer (M. Dumas and sons), as well as the G. Bruce Boyer rep from Mountain & Sackett. Most that I rescued are traditional neck ties, but over 25 of them are bow ties – which I wear exclusively on Tuesday. Fridays I go without, leaving me three days in a typical week to wear a new tie; so, 52 weeks minus 4 of vacation gives me 48, at 3 neck ties per week – you do the math. In South Carolina, a thrift tie is .99 cents. I do not live in SC – it would be nice if I did as my grandson is there. Instead, I visit as often as practical. SC has terrific Southern Trad in its various thrift stores. Florida, where I do live, has many terrific finds. Yankees relocate, all retired and ready to wear shorts and flowery shirts. During matriculation they dispose of wonderful and classic items of fantastic origins and hand tailoring.
The ability to resuscitate something - giving it a different second act than what it imagined as it hung in a bargain price thrift store - feeds my eco-conscious and my closet. I am saving something that was obviously misunderstood by its donor – saving it from a second life of partnering with a brown-stripe polyester suite and blue shoes, worn every other Sunday. Now, I am not purposely belittling those who make these clothing choices, but you do not park your Bentley on an angle in the last down-ramp in the parking garage. You give keys to the valet, or preferably have your driver find a nice spot in the shade to wait – no idling please as this hurts the nearby trees. Saving a discarded item of a spectacular nature - discarded for whatever the reason– is a responsible thing. Good books need not merely sit on shelves, they should be enjoyed by lovers of books. Good clothes are the same.
I am aware of my impact to our planet, by experiencing it and by owning land – which is code for owning more land than a house in a cul-de-sac. When you spend time caring for something of that size, you cannot help but develop an even greater appreciation for the impact humans are jam-sandwiching onto a nature whose Mother is working toward rewarding humanity’s stewardship with a sharp stick in the eye; retaliation of our oblivious march toward an ever-growing need for 100% - full time – self-gratification and consumption. I cannot stop China and India from melting the polar ice caps, I cannot stop the deforestation of the Amazon. However, mother nature will - by allowing us (humans) to cause or own demise.
Until she does, I will rescue ties, blazers, and pants – and repurpose them to my size by learning to tailor. I own a Singer – I bought it refurbished.
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